Missouri State Parks and Historic Sites
On October 20, 2022, I made a pledge to visit every Missouri State Park and Historic Site. I had no idea there were 95 of them including two that were listed as “other facilities.” Most were open to the public, some were not.
The only proof I have that I’ve visited each place are my pics and my memories. Occasionally, friends would hike with me; however, most of the time I hiked alone.
My sole protection was a hiking stick that I had been given by another hiker at Taum Sauk Mountain. The stick helped me to traverse mountains, cliffs, wet-weather creeks, caves, and pull myself up when I fell in the mud at Knob Noster. At one point, I used it to swipe away gnats. Those results were mixed.
I had one simple rule: Hike one or more miles in each state park and historic site. In some instances, there were no trails, so it wasn’t always possible to follow that rule.
In the case of the Battle of Carthage State Historic Site, I lost my photos. It was around the time, I changed phones. No pics meant going back to Carthage, MO. It’s a nice town. There are lots of things to do nearby but oh, what a drive! I live near St. Louis, and Carthage is on the other side of the state.
NOTE: All the pics on the website are smart phone images.
Up next: Johnson Shut-Ins
Johnson Shut-Ins is nature’s version of a water park. There are waterfalls, slides, pools, flumes, etc. Many of the submerged rocks are covered in moss and algae which makes them extremely slippery. They can be jagged and unforgiving. I’ve fallen a few times. Fortunately, I had someone to pull me out of the water.
Geology
What is a “shut in?” It’s a gorge or narrow constriction of a stream. In the case of Johnson Shut-Ins, the *stream* is the east fork of the Black River.
Johnson Shut-Ins is part of the St. Francois Mountain Range. At 1.5 billion years old, they are the 7th oldest mountain range in the world. The rock formations are the result of volcanic activity. They are primarily composed of erosion-resistant rhyolite, a close cousin to granite. Dolomite bedrock is also present.
There are narrow fractures where the rocks have managed to split and erode. The water constricted by the fractures and erosion is what created the shut-ins we see today.
History
Before recorded history, indigenous people were in the area perhaps as far back as 14,000 years ago. Later tribes like the Osage inhabited the region. As European settlers moved in, Native Americans were pushed farther west and south into Oklahoma and points beyond. Due to Johnson Shut-Ins rough terrain, not many people stayed. Most settlers were in search of flatter, more fertile ground. Some were not to be deterred no matter what the conditions.
Johnson Shut-Ins is named for the Johnston family. They moved here from Appalachia and were of Scotch-Irish descent. After establishing a farm, the family dropped the “t” from their name. It must have taken a lot of determination to farm this boulder-strewn landscape.
Johnson Shut-Ins might have been called Desloge shut-ins had the park’s benefactor been a man who sought recognition.
Joseph Desloge (1889-1971) believed in conservation when it came to preserving Missouri’s natural beauty. In 1955, he donated 2,400 acres of land to the state of Missouri for the establishment of a park.
Major Event
On December 14, 2005, Missourians woke up to the news that Ameren UE had a reservoir dam breach. Around 5 a.m. a faulty pump released billions of gallons of water into Johnson Shut-Ins State Park. Miraculously, no lives were lost although some were injured. Fortunately, the breach occurred in the off-season while no one was camping in the park at the time.
Today
The Department of Natural Resources, park staff, volunteers and others have done a remarkable job in restoring Johnson Shut-Ins. Unfortunately, it will never be the same place it was before the breach occurred.
The new visitors’ center was completed in 2010. In October, the visitors’ center is only open on Saturdays and Sundays from 10 am to 4 pm. November – March, the center is closed. When traveling in the off-season, it is best to check the park website for seasonal hours of operation.
Hiking
The most popular trail in the park is the 2.3-mile Shut-Ins Trail. Part of the trail is paved and includes scenic overlooks of the shut-in area. If you want to avoid the crowds, late fall and winter are the best times to go.
I hiked portions of the Scour Trail as well. You can see evidence of where the rushing waters *scoured* through the area. Unless it’s an extremely cold day, the sun is relentless as though you were in an Arizona desert. My advice is to have plenty of water and wear a hat. Hiking poles and/or walking sticks are essential to maintain footing on the rockier portions of the trail.
